Let's just say that I like Kalamazoo a lot more than Amtrak. The service between Detroit and Chicago (called the Michigan Wolverine) is the least on-time service that Amtrak runs. Trains are never on time, and often very late. This is mostly due to congestion in and out of Chicago. Our Tuesday morning train departed 30 minutes late. After Dearborn there are only 3 more stops before Kalamazoo, and there are times when the train is going 175 km/hr. But there are many speed zones where the train still has to inch across the landscape, especially in urban areas. So we arrived 30 minutes late.
Our first stop was Bell's Brewery, quite close to the station, where we spent some happy moments drinking their darker ales. We have visited here once before, many years ago. The restaurant has greatly expanded, and so has their tap list. They are one of my favourite breweries, even though they have no Detroit footprint.
Overview of the bar at Bell's, Kalamazoo, MI.
That's a lot of taps. We tried five in 5 oz. servings.
My four sit on the board. Deb tried the Porter, in behind.
There are large and colourful stained glass windows in the pub.
The moose antlers are real, and attached to the glass.
In addition to several of the finest ales in the world, their food is pretty good, too. I had grilled mushrooms over rice, which was really tasty and complimented the dark ales I was drinking. Deb had a spicy tofu Thai peanut noodle thingy, which was crammed with tofu.
Afterwards we crossed the street to a cool little cafe, called Water St. Cafe. Kalamazoo is one of those smaller cities that still has active rail lines passing every which way through the city, and things seem to peak near the cafe. Their coffee is really good, and they also offer vegan food and treats. We split a scone before heading to our hotel.
A train rumbles through the center of an active pub and cafe area of Kalamazoo.
Water Street Cafe.
Our hotel, the downtown Comfort Inn, was a one mile walk from the station/pub area. It is a pleasant enough walk, passing right through the center of the small downtown. Decorated for Day of the Dead and Halloween, there were dressed up skeletons everywhere, and giant spiders atop clocks and other fixtures. We rested for a time at the hotel, before heading out on the town. I had been looking forward to visiting a brewery right next to the hotel, but it was closed, permanently. Not to worry, as there was another one only a block away!
We visited Saugatuck Brewing, and then went to Tibbs Brewery, before moving on to Central City Taphouse for even more ales (for me) and dinner. Nearly half their taps were beers from Belgium, and I nearly died and nearly went to Heaven! By this time I was becoming pleasantly pickled, so I only had three 5 oz glasses. Details below.
Bright and cheerful Saugatuk Brewing Co., lying close to our hotel, features floor to ceiling windows on two and half sides. I found three ales I was interested in, all on the lighter side.
I had the great pleasure to drink two masterpieces of nano-brewing at Tibbs. Pumped Up Pumpkin was my first such ale of the season, and will likely remain the best of the bunch. I also had Ben Jonesin', an outstanding Chocolate Toffee Porter. I get goose bumps thinking of those two!
The bar at Tibbs.
The beer board at Tibbs. I had the top two choices, 5 oz servings.
Part of the tap list at Central City Taphouse. I had a German Weissbock, which was totally incredible, and a Belgian Quad worth dying for. After dinner I finished up with a local brew, Gose from Bell's named after a Walt Whitman poem called "The Prairie Grass Dividing."
More taps!
We had Jackfruit Tacos for dinner at Central City Taphouse before the mile or so trek back to our hotel. I felt very little pain on the way back. Speaking of pain, I was in pain for some of this journey. The night before we left I threw my back out, simply by bending down to pick up a cat dish from the floor. I was in level 9 or 10 pain for about 10 minutes. The trip was nearly cancelled, but I was considerably better by morning. It still hurts tonight, but not too badly.
Next morning we checked out, and by 11:30 am were browsing a downtown antique mall. Deb bought a Shakespeare action figure, a model 1950s convertible car, and a tiny gun and holster. Look for them in a new animation feature soon.
Deb hangs out with a friend in downtown Kalamazoo.
It was a Tuesday night, and not very wild.
Then, action figure in tow, we went to Shakespeare's Pub, very close to the train station, to spend an afternoon drinking ale (me), and gaming. We had brought Carcassonne, and a Middle Earth: The Wizards card game. We were at the pub for about five hours. It was cold, windy, damp, and we didn't feel like walking around, so we stayed put. Great beer, and some great food. And Callie the waitress took great care of us! I had two flights, one of all pumpkin ales, as well as a 10 oz glass of Atwater's VJP.
The train from Chicago arrived in Kalamazoo to take us home, but it was 90 minutes late. As we finally approached our station in Dearborn, the train suddenly stopped (in its tracks). Then all the power went out, except the emergency lights. Five minutes later, an announcement came on. The crew had finished their shift, and were not allowed to work any longer. So we waited for a new crew to arrive, and the old one to depart. We finally chugged into the station two hours late. Good ol' Amtrak. We were home by around 10:40 pm, instead of 8:40.
Kalamazoo Amtrak station, beautifully restored, is halfway between two great cities. Kalamazoo isn't half bad itself.
Our train travel was covered by Amtrak points we had saved up from previous travel, and the hotel was free on points, too. It was fun, but I'm pretty certain we will drive next time. Today Deb had to get her regular blood work done, then we went for groceries. Home for lunch, then Deb went back into town for her haircut. A busy gal.
As for me, I managed a full two hour practice. Astronomy season begins tomorrow night, and it appears as if it might be clear (but cold). Be still my beating heart!
Tonight we watched Carol Reed's unique and fascinating film, "The Third Man." Joseph Cotton plays an American pulp writer offered a job by his best friend in post-war Vienna. Incredible b & w photography, great story and acting, and a creepy Orson Welles as Harry Lime, a criminal that only an intelligent and beautiful woman could love. Well, perhaps that is one weakness in the story. How she could still love this guy after what he did is not really very believable. Anyway, we had not seen it in many years, and Criterion Channel had a pristine print. Excellent film, and we recognized several parts of Vienna, despite the aftermath of the bombing.
Signing off for now, this is
Mapman Mike
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